FIANO, Southern Italy’s Amazing Wine
In this video, Bob Paulinski, Master of Wine discusses Fiano. If you don’t know it you’re missing out on something that is well worthwhile.
I’ll provide some background story on this noble grape variety, what to expect when tasting it, I’ll talk about the age ability, food and wine pairings and what to look for when shopping for it.
Naples is the regional capital of Campania. Home to many indigenous wine grape varieties, this video will focus on one specific variety. Fiano has an ancient history, tying back to the early Roman days, but it nearly went extinct decades ago as the yields tend to be low. It was often replaced with higher yield varieties, like Trebbiano. It’s now being more broadly recognized for its quality potential.
While Campania is the homebase, it’s also found in Basilicata, Puglia and Sicily. Starting to catch on in Australia, McLaren, Hunter and Clare Valley. Along with some plantings in Argentina.
On this trip, I tasted a dozen or so different Fianos. This is more Fiano than I’d tasted in my entire life. The styles vary a bit, there are many consistent characteristics. The youthful versions are pale straw in color, bright primary fruit notes, citrus, orange zest, Asian pear, roasted nutty character, reminiscent of hazelnut, with a good level of acidity that forms the backbone of the wine, well textured, some with a slight salty note. None of the versions tasted had overt oak, but some had obvious lees contact that provides a rounder, richer character on the palate. Most showed aromatic complexity and finesse. I liked the wines when not overly chilled, this helped to bring out the exotic fruit character.
Fiano has thick grape skin helps with resisting fungal diseases, also retains acidity in a warm climate, perhaps making it more appealing with climate change. Harvest is usually in late August. The better producers will harvest at night or early morning hours while the temperature is lower.
Next, I had the chance to drink some aged Fiano. While the wines broadly drank well while youthful, there are plenty of claims that is ages well for about 5 to 7 years. Here, I’m trying a 2016, about 7 years old at the time of making this video. You can clearly see there is some oxidation, along with some tertiary notes, but its still holding together well with the roasted hazelnut character shining through along with a honeyed aroma, even though the wine is completely dry. The full structure and acidity of the wine hold it together well with bottle age. I’m trying to compare it to other aged white wines, but it’s distinctly unique. If you’re out shopping for Fiano, keep in mind, it can not keep well when cellared, it actually evolves with age.
To continue the Fiano experience, I found a wine shop near where I was staying in Naples. The shops here tend to small, old school sort of businesses with best having plenty of personal service. The shop was mostly local wines with about a dozen different Fiano to choose from. He turned out to be a great source for the behind-the-scenes happenings on a micro level and he was eager to share the story. When I asked about Fiano, he lit up. If you’re in Naples, visit this wine shop. There’s a limited range, but thoughtfully curated and you can have a good glass of wine with a plate of local meats, cheese and olives. Outside of Italy, Fiano isn’t the easiest to find, but it can be found in many countries, but you’ll likely need to visit a specialty retailer or shop for it online. Fiano is not open price point cheap due to its low yields, but considering the quality, I see it as a bargain.
Fiano is mostly associated with Fiano di Avellino from Campania where is has a long history and where its had its own DOCG since 2003. The yield maximum is controlled to help maintain quality and the alcohol level must be at least 11.5%, but most are 13%-13.5%. Fiano excels in places with volcanic soil, but I’ve liked the versions from non-volcanic soils as well. The versions that I’ve had from Puglia and Sicily are impressive as well and will likely increase. The Aussie take on it is excellent. I’ve yet to see any from Argentina. Globally, the plantings of Fiano are increasing, but it’s clearly a niche wine at the present time, although the somm community seems to be increasingly paying attention to it.
In terms of wine and food pairings, Fiano is extremely versatile. It can substitute for Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Gris. Most versions are unoaked and the alcohol is not too high. The acidity pronounced enough and the structure is full enough to match well with a broad range of flavors. It’s a good with match with shellfish, fried fish or fried zucchini blossoms, creamy seafood dishes or soft or semi soft creamy cheeses.
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